In April, was interviewed by Oprah on her 70+ birthday. Oprah asked her what she thought of growing older. And, there on television, she said it was “exciting.” She is such a simple and honest woman, with so much wisdom in her words!
Treatment masks feed and hydrate the skin while activating its self cleaning mechanism. A properly applied treatment mask should totally cover the skin preventing any exchange between the skin and the environment.
Closing off the skin from the outside environment creates an occlusion. A good and proper occlusive mask causes increased blood flow to the area adding oxygen to the skin while carrying away impurities and taking in the nut
Every week once a week – cleanse, tone, exfoliate and mask
I am a reader of poetry. From time to time I would like to share my favorites that I feel relate to the intention of my practice.
Walt Whitman, Song of Myself
I celebrate myself, and sing myself,
And what I assume you shall assume,
For every atom belonging to me as good belongs to you . . . .
Creeds and schools in abeyance,
Retiring back awhile sufficed at what they are but never forgotten,
I harbor for good or bad, I permit to speak at every hazard,
Nature without check with original energy.
Clear and sweet is my soul and clear and sweet is all that is not my soul.
Lack one lacks both, and the unseen is proved by the seen,
Till that becomes unseen and receives proof in its turn.
Stout as a horse, affectionate, haughty, electrical,
I and this mystery, here we stand
Yes,but be gentle and use mild exfoliants such as rice Bran powder. Never over-exfoliate – once per week max. Dr. Monte Meltzer, Chief of Dermatology at Union Memorial Hospital in Baltimore states “Some lip products contain salicylic acid, an ingredient of unproven safety when applied to lips. Lips are not hyperkeratotic skin, when salicylic acid is applied to the lips, it can erode through the outer stratum corneum to damage living skin layers beneath.”
What feels like an addiction is more psychological. According to Dr. Charles Zugerman, Associate Professor of Clinical Dermatology at North-Western University Medical School, people do not become addicted to lip care products or the ingredients in them. Rather, people may become habituated to the soothing feeling of having a lip care product on their lips. Should this happen, the person can stop using the product and experience no withdrawal symptoms. There is no such thing as physical addiction to lip balm.
article courtesy of PCA Skin
Growing in popularity over the past few years, gel manicures require a curing lamp, usually a portable UV or LED dryer, in order to “set” the polish and allow it to remain unchipped for up to two weeks.
Image courtesy of jezebel.com.
Although the exposure to UV light while “curing” a gel manicure is minimal, protecting the skin with a broad spectrum sunscreen product is still highly recommended.
According to The Skin Cancer Foundation, applying a moisturizing SPF 15 or higher before drying your nails in the UV dryer is the safest course of action. Although the skin cancer risks are rather low, the risk of developing brown spots, wrinkles and thinning skin remain.
Some salons employ the use of LED, or light emitting diode, lights instead. LED lights are completely safe and have been used for years to minimize P. acnes bacteria, heal wounded skin and even increase the deposition of collagen. Simply ask your favorite nail salon which type they use. According to an article by HLNtv.com, LED dryers are becoming more and more popular. Not only are they a safer option, but they also decrease dry time, making the curing process that much faster.
There are several ways to protect the skin of the hands from over-exposure to UV radiation. Consider bringing your own broad spectrum sunscreen product to the nail salon and apply an even coat to the hands before putting them in the dryer. Some experts suggest wearing dark colored gloves and snipping off the nail area to protect the hands. Others recommend avoiding gel manicures altogether and sticking with regular nail polish.
Without proper care, lips can age faster than other areas of our skin. Think of your lips as a sponge. “When exposed to moisture, they absorb water and plump up. When dehydrated, they dry out and shrink,” explains Bruce Bart, M.D., a dermatologist at Hennepin County Medical Center in Minneapolis. Because our lips are always exposed, they’re prone to dehydration, particularly during the cold, dry, winter months.
A major culprit of premature aging around the mouth is smoking. Besides the damage caused by the toxins in the smoke itself, smokers are more likely to develop lines around the mouth because of the repeated use of the perioral muscles to hold the cigarette. Smoking increases the hits of aging free radicals by about a million per inhalation. Generally, heavy smokers age 10 years earlier than their non-smoking counterparts.
If that’s not enough, smoking decreases the secretion of oestrogen from the ovaries, and it also is thought to make the liver destroy oestrogen supplies (nicotine activates enzymes in the liver that metabolize sex hormones, speeding up the rate at which they are removed from the body), causing possible, early onset of menopause.
Our lips need more moisture and conditioning as we age. The cumulative damage to the lips and the skin resulting from years of overexposure to the sun, cold air and harsh weather pay their toll. The negative effects of the environment frequently result in the drying, chapping, and cracking of the mouth, and there’s increased risk of inflammation, infection and burning sensations. Greater care of your lips can reverse the signs of aging and trauma.
We often tend to neglect our lips when it comes to facial skin care, except of course for the occasional collagen injection for some. And yet our mouth and lips are so vitally important for an array of reasons, including the ability to make various facial expressions, speaking, and let’s not forget kissing!
Why are Lips Red?
The mucous membrane of the lips, which is full of capillaries and is close to the surface, gives lips a reddish color. And because lips contain less pigment melanin in them (the lighter the skin, the less color), the skin is more translucent.
What’s in a Kiss?The lips are an erogenous zone due to the high content of nerve endings. When you kiss, it carries messages from your lips, tongue and face to your brain. Your brain responds by ordering your body to produce:
- Oxytocin: helps people develop feelings of attachment, devotion and affection for one another.
- Dopamine: plays a role in the brain’s processing of emotions, pleasure and pain.
- Serotonin: affects mood and feelings.
- Adrenaline: increases heart rate and plays a role in your body’s fight-or-flight response.
Our lips are composed of skin, muscle and mucosa. They have no bones, oil glands or infrastructure. The skin is very thin compared to the rest of our facial skin and it’s comprised of three to five cellular layers. As we age, this already thin layer becomes progressively thinner.
Is Pout Important?
According to sexual psychologists, tests have found that men find a woman with full lips to be more sexually attractive than those with thin lips. Apparently it’s all due to a woman’s estrogen – the higher the level of estrogen, the larger the eyes and the fuller the lips. Plump lips therefore serve as a biological in¬dicator of a woman’s health and fertility. No wonder then the demand for lip plumpers and collagen injections!
Every day, new products come out boasting to be the best in the industry. It’s true that there are some great product lines out there, but what is most important is to make sure that you partner with an Esthetician whose philosophy aligns with yours.
Some treatments are more aggressive than others, and clinicians need to educate the public and their clients on what is best for their individual skin type. Most importantly, skin care professionals must be able to explain to their clients what is taking place within their skin when various types of chemical exfoliating products and peels are applied to their skin, as well as why certain procedures have been chosen.
The term “chemical peel” creates many scary images in the minds of our clients, especially when the term “chemical” is used in conjunction with the word “peel.” However, the good news is that peel formulations have become very sophisticated over the years and many actually improve the overall health of the skin.
In simple terms, there are different depths of penetration. The deeper dermal peels which literally remove the epidermis, require long periods of downtime and are typically applied in a physician’s office, are still used for deeper wrinkles and surface imperfections such as acne scarring. This is usually what comes to people’s mind and causes a significant amount of fear.
Superficial – or epidermal peels – are designed to only penetrate into the upper layers of the skin. Many peels are now formulated as blends which are even more gentle than a single-ingredient formulation and, in some cases, are so gentle the patient may not even see any visible exfoliation; however, they will still be able to see visible results with little to no downtime.
There is also some confusion surrounding chemical peels causing thinning of the skin when used on a regular basis. It is most important to understand that the epidermal cells are continuously produced and are supported by the body’s own epidermal stem cells. There is no limit to this cellular production; however, as we age and with over-exposure to UV rays, our natural cell turnover slows down and our epidermal stem cells aren’t as active as in younger skin. Superficial, blended chemical peel formulations actually encourage cellular renewal and help to speed up cell turnover while stimulating collagen and elastin production, reducing the appearance of brown spots, fine lines and wrinkles; many also introduce important hydrating ingredients back into the skin. There are even formulations gentle enough for sensitive skin and rosacea. It’s really all about the blend!
Remember that these are superficial peels only designed to penetrate within the upper layers of the skin; dermal peels do penetrate into living tissue, and there would be significant damage to the skin if peels such as these were performed on a regular, monthly basis.
article courtesy of PCA Skin
From Truth & Aging Magazine August 8, 2012 by Marta
I just discovered that I have something in common with Meryl Streep – we are both devotees of microcurrent facials. Sixty-something Ms. Streep has the Resculpting Facial with Tracie Martyn. I had to smile when I read this in the midst of the media hoopla coinciding with Meryl Streep’s latest movie, Hope Springs. As it happens, I visited Tracie Martyn’s New York salon when I first arrived in New York and kept going back once a month for the Resculpting Facial. These days, I go to Ildi Pekar’s salon – she used to work for Tracie Martyn.
The Resculpting Facial typically starts with a little microdermabrasion and ends with a blast of cooling oxygen. Mostly though it is microcurrent. Looking back on this, I am struck that I have been having microcurrent treatments with Ildi for about 10 years and I still swear by them. So what is microcurrent and why has it got me and Ms. Streep hooked?
Microcurrent uses a subsensory electric current that delivers a pulse to the facial muscles and stimulates them and the surrounding tissue. The esthetician’s skill is in manipulating two probes to massage the muscles whilst the current is being delivered to them. This stimulates the muscle fibers and they can be gently (this is not something you can really feel happening) toned or shortened.
The theory is that microcurrent improves the production of adenosine triphosphate (ATP), the chemical in muscles that provides energy. However, there only seems to be one study backing this up and it goes back to the late 1980s – however, the results were an impressive 500% increase in ATP. Anyway, ATP is stored and so the effects of microcurrent treatments over time are cumulative.
I believe that microcurrent inherently appeals to people who really don’t like the idea of Botox. Indeed, I would say it works in the opposite way to Botox, which inhibits muscle movement in order to relax wrinkles. A muscle that doesn’t move will atrophy and the result (without more treatments) would be increased sagging. Microcurrent, on the other hand, is like giving the muscles in your face the equivalent of a bicep curl. Much more my kind of thing. Plus, it isn’t toxic.
Microcurrent is not a new technology (in the UK, the machines are called CACI) and it was originally developed to restore muscular functions for stroke patients. However, the machines have become more sophisticated over the last couple of decades with more sensitive controls that allow a good esthetician to really “sculpt” facial contours.
Which brings me to another point. I do not think that microcurrent is an effective DIY treatment. The efficacy really depends on the skill of the esthetician and how the “prongs” are manipulated around the muscle. I have tried out at-home devices such as Nu-Face and Face Master and have not been very impressed by them.
I will be eternally grateful for the introduction to microcurrent – a decade later it has very much stood the test of time.